新加坡係我去過最認真對待食物嘅城市,冇之一。Singapore is a city where a S$4 hawker bowl can outshine a S$40 restaurant plate — and I mean that literally. 我去過五次,每次都係因為食嘢,每次都係帶住新名單回去。A typical food-focused day in Singapore costs S$30–60(約HKD 175–350)就已經食得非常爽,唔使去fancy dining都feel到呢個城市有幾認真。
新加坡用新加坡元(SGD/S$),1 SGD約HKD 5.8。語言方面英文完全夠用,落hawker centre有時老闆講福建話或廣東話,係囉,香港人其實溝通唔難㗎。最好玩係搭MRT,非常易用,機場直達市區約30分鐘,EZ-Link card一張搞掂。最佳去旅行時間係二月至四月,雨少少、熱但唔算變態。
第一站:Maxwell Food Centre嘅天天海南雞飯,我終於明白為咩排隊值得
我第一次去新加坡,朋友叫我去Maxwell Food Centre食雞飯,我心諗:雞飯?香港都有㗎喎。然後我食咗第一口,我就閉嘴了。
天天海南雞飯(Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice)喺Maxwell Food Centre #01-10/11,Tanjong Pagar MRT A出口行約5分鐘。白切雞係S$5起(約HKD 29)一件,半隻雞大概S$14(約HKD 81)。配嗰碗雞油飯先係重點——粒粒分明,有雞香但唔油膩,沾佢哋自家薑蓉同辣椒醬,好正到我係咁叫我朋友試。
排隊情況:平日11:30開門,11:15已經有人排緊喇。我建議你11:00就到場,霸住個位先,等開門即刻落單。周二休息,唔好撲空。用餐時間大概11:00–20:00,但雞賣晒就閂(通常下午三四點就冇晒)。
係囉,Gordon Ramsay都食過呢家,但你唔係因為佢先去——你係因為食落真係唔一樣先去。雞皮係那種剛好滑但唔溜,雞肉係juicy但唔生,調味鹹淡係香港人接受到嗰個程度。我食完走出嚟站係街邊,諗住:呢碗野係食物定係藝術?
Maxwell Food Centre本身係個值得流連嘅地方,約有100個攤位,炒粿條、rojak、咖哩魚頭都有。我建議你唔好只食雞飯——入去逛一圈,睇下乜嘢最多本地人坐係度食,跟住坐落去。外面有Google Maps位置可以導航。
Hawker Centre食嘢小貼士
坐低先,放個紙巾係張枱度就係「已霸位」嘅意思——係本地潛規則,唔係亂來㗎。唔好用手袋or銀包,紙巾先係正確答案。另外,hawker centre通常唔收服務費,你俾幾多就係幾多,好抵食。
第二站:Old Airport Road Food Centre,我揀左邊果攤魚片米,唔係右邊嗰個
Old Airport Road Food Centre(舊機場路熟食中心)係我最鍾意嘅hawker centre,唔係最出名,但係本地人最密密去嗰隻。地址係51 Old Airport Road,坐MRT到Dakota站(CC8)A出口行約8分鐘。
呢度有我搵到全新加坡最好食嘅魚片米粉——Heng Gi Goose and Duck Rice隔籬嗰間叫Lim's Fried Oyster,但我每次去都係直衝Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff(#01-100)。S$1.5一個(約HKD 8.7),薄皮咖哩角,係用舊式shortcrust pastry做,唔係街上嗰種厚餅皮,咬落去係係咁先得㗎——係薄、係酥、係燙,咖哩汁唔會漏出嚟。
但係,呢度我真正後悔冇早啲發現嘅係Toa Payoh Lor 7 Fried Kway Teow,佢哋有時喺呢度出現(有時係Toa Payoh本店),炒粿條係乾身版,蛋炒到半熟,血蚶真係有血嘅那種。S$4(約HKD 23)一碟,係我食過最好嘅版本。
Old Airport Road開放時間大約早上6:00至深夜,部分攤位24小時,所以夜鬼都有得食。整個food centre係outdoor半遮蓋式,熱,但係有風扇,建議早上10:00前或晚上7:00後去,人少啲、涼啲。
第三站:Jalan Besar嘅Pow Sing Restaurant,我差點因為外表走過佢
Pow Sing Restaurant(寶星餐室)喺1 Norris Road,Jalan Besar MRT(DT22)行約6分鐘。外表係完全唔起眼嗰種,白色磁磚、舊風扇、塑膠凳,你喺外面望入去會以為係普通茶餐廳。我第一次係因為朋友強拉我入去。
佢哋做嘅係白斬雞(White-cut chicken),但版本同天天唔同——皮係輕微煙燻過,有點琥珀色,雞肉係細嫩但有咬口,係那種你唔使沾醬都好食嘅level。半隻S$16(約HKD 93),一隻S$30(約HKD 174)。另外必叫黑醬油膽(Dark Soy Sauce Liver)——係豬潤,S$8(約HKD 46),配埋白飯S$0.5,抵到喊。
Pow Sing開放時間係11:00–14:30,17:00–21:00,逢周一休息。堂食係現金優先,但近年開始接受PayNow。我建議你12:30前到,因為午市峰位雞真係賣晒,係我試過下午一點到結果冇雞食,坐係度等咗40分鐘先有新一批。教訓係:早啲到。
Jalan Besar一帶近年有好多精品咖啡店,食完Pow Sing可以行去檳城風格嘅鴉片巷式小店食個dessert,或者去附近嘅Chye Seng Huat Hardware(咖啡店)歎杯手沖,係Jalan Besar本店,唔係連鎖分店。
Jalan Besar一帶值得行嘅原因
Jalan Besar係我覺得新加坡最有性格嘅街區,唔係Chinatown嗰種表演給遊客睇嘅感覺,係真實嘅舊組屋同新式小店並存。入夜行呢條街,睇下本地人係點生活,好過去Clarke Quay坐一晚。
第四站:Geylang Serai Pasar Malam,我在這裡吃了我生命中最好的Murtabak
新加坡係個多元文化城市,冇吃過馬來食物就係白嚟。Singapore is home to some of Southeast Asia's best Malay-Indian Muslim street food, and Geylang是你必須去嘅地方。
我係去緊Zam Zam Restaurant,喺677-679 North Bridge Road,Bugis MRT(EW12/DT14)C出口行約3分鐘。開業1908年,係新加坡最老嘅murtabak店之一。Murtabak係一種煎薄餅,入面係碎肉+洋蔥+蛋,對摺煎到金黃,S$9–12(約HKD 52–70)一份,份量係兩個人食。
係囉,我試過好多地方嘅murtabak,但Zam Zam嘅皮係薄薄脆脆嗰種,入面肉汁係真係juicy,配埋咖哩汁蘸,係我吃過最好的版本。開放時間係早上7:00–晚上11:00,全年無休。避開1:00–2:00pm,係最多遊客嗰個時段,服務會慢。
附近仲有Haji Lane,係條充滿小店同壁畫嘅窄巷,食完Zam Zam可以行過去逛下,係Bugis一帶我最鍾意嘅部分。外部參考可以睇新加坡旅遊局官網了解更多馬來文化地點。
第五站:328 Katong Laksa,我唔後悔等咗20分鐘
Katong Laksa係新加坡獨有嘅東西——唔係馬來laksa,唔係Assam laksa,係Katong版:椰奶湯底、剪短咗嘅米粉(唔使筷子,只用匙),蝦、魚蛋、蛤蜊係標配。
328 Katong Laksa喺216 East Coast Road,Paya Lebar MRT(EW8/CC9)出來搭的士約10分鐘,或者Grab約S$8(約HKD 46)。開放時間係早上9:00至晚上9:30,周三休息。一碗S$7–9(約HKD 40–52),加蝦另計。
呢度係我必須誠實同你講:排隊係真係要等,但係值得。我等咗22分鐘(周六早上11點),坐低係度第一口喝湯,係勁正——椰香濃郁但唔膩,辣度係那種喉嚨有warmth但唔會飲水飲唔停嗰種。我連湯都飲晒。
附近嘅East Coast Park係個bonus,食完可以行去海邊坐下,新加坡難得嘅自然空間。如果你係早上去,可以配埋隔籬嘅kaya toast同teh tarik當早餐,一共S$12(約HKD 70)就搞掂整個早上。
新加坡美食地圖仲可以延伸去鄰近城市:吉隆坡嘅Jalan Alor夜市係另一個level嘅食街體驗,檳城喬治市嘅hawker文化係被UNESCO認可嗰種,雅加達嘅Betawi菜係完全唔同嘅系統。如果你想了解更多東南亞食文化,曼谷街邊食物同新加坡比較係個好玩嘅方式。
最後,The best time to visit Singapore is February to April,天氣相對乾燥,農曆新年前後仲有街頭裝飾,食物節活動密集。唔需要簽證(香港特區護照90日免簽),英文係官方語言之一,落地完全唔迷路。機場係Changi Airport,全球最高評分機場之一,就算轉機都係一個體驗。
記得:新加坡食物嘅靈魂唔係喺高級餐廳,係喺hawker centre、係喺老舊街邊店、係喺排隊等開門嗰刻。帶住呢張名單去,你唔會後悔㗎。
延伸閱讀:Michelin Guide Singapore | Wikipedia: Singaporean Cuisine | Time Out Singapore餐廳推薦
常見問題 FAQ
How much does food cost per day in Singapore?
A food-focused day eating at hawker centres and local restaurants in Singapore costs S$20–50(約HKD 116–290)per person. A single hawker meal averages S$4–8, while a mid-range sit-down restaurant runs S$20–35 per person. You don't need to spend big to eat extremely well here.
Is Singapore hawker food safe to eat?
Yes. Singapore's hawker centres are government-regulated and graded by the National Environment Agency (NEA). Each stall displays a hygiene grade (A, B, C). Stick to A and B-grade stalls and you'll be fine. The water is also safe to drink straight from the tap.
Best time to visit Singapore for food trips?
The best time to visit Singapore is February to April — it's the driest stretch of the year. Avoid November to January when monsoon rains hit hardest. Singapore Food Festival runs in July–August annually and is worth timing your trip around if you're serious about food.
How do I get around Singapore to eat at different hawker centres?
Singapore's MRT is the easiest and cheapest way to get between hawker centres. Buy an EZ-Link card at the airport (S$12 including S$7 stored value). For spots not near MRT, Grab (Southeast Asia's Uber equivalent) is affordable — most cross-city trips cost S$8–15(約HKD 46–87).
Do I need to tip at hawker centres in Singapore?
No tipping needed at hawker centres — it's not customary and sometimes considered odd. At full-service restaurants, a 10% service charge is usually already added to the bill (you'll see it on the receipt), so no additional tip is expected.
Is Tian Tian chicken rice at Maxwell Food Centre worth the queue?
Yes, 100%. Arrive by 11:15am on weekdays (the stall opens at 11:30am) and you'll wait 10–20 minutes max. Skip it on Tuesdays — they're closed. A half chicken with rice costs about S$14(約HKD 81)and feeds two people comfortably when paired with a side dish.


